The first appointment - choosing fabric and measuring

When ordering a fully bespoke suit you are measured in greatdetail taking into account all the detail of your posture. You aremeasured by a bespoke cutter who has years of experience.He will need to see a picture of you in his mind whilst heanalyses the measurements and creates a unique pattern foryou. If necessary the cutter will take a picture of the client atthe first appointment.

The suit is then hand cut to your specific size and then handstitched but only up to the 'baste' stage.

This stage is what makes a bespoke suit bespoke.If your tailor claims to be making you a bespoke suit but thereis no baste stage then it is not a bespoke suit. Without thisstage it can only be semi-bespoke or made to measure.

A baste is a half-made suit that is not properly finished andonly temporarily held together with white baste stitching.This allows it to be easily taken apart and remade.

The basted garment has unfinished lapels, no buttons and nobuttonholes (see photo).

The second appointment - first fitting

At this stage you will have your first fitting and the cutter willassess the accuracy of his measurements.

The basted suit is a blueprint or 'first draft' of the final versionand can be radically altered if necessary.The cutter will make notes and usually chalk several marks onthe suit to see where the alterations are to be made

The fact that the suit is only basted together allows you theopportunity to change the style if you wish. For example thereare no buttonholes on the baste jacket, so if you want to raiseor lower the buttoning position this is easily possible.You also have the chance to narrow or widen the lapels orshoulders if you wish.

These options would not be possible on a made to measureor semi bespoke suit.

The fourth/final appointment - third fitting

Depending on your shape, this may be your final fitting. If sothe cutter will check that the adjustments have been donecorrectly and if you are happy with the suit you can take ithome.

If further adjustments are necessary your suit will be returnedto the tailors until it is perfect. Cutters are perfectionists bynature and a good cutter will not rest until the suit is perfect.

After all he has a reputation to protect.

This whole process involves 50 to 70 hours of manual work byskilled craftsmen.

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